艳服出席，却又心碎满地？屋顶秧田工装

艳服出席，却又心碎满地？ 武定政务服务管理局工作服招标闺房风格的粉色丝绒长软椅、镜子、延绵不断的长地毯……我们仿佛置身于1间710年代的夜店，或是1个高级的寻欢场所。白雾像香烟1样围绕在秀场里，让人恍如觉得这是电影布景。不过，好像有甚么地方不太对劲。几分钟后，他那些古怪严肃的Gucci模特们就踩着超高的防水台，踏上了粉红的秀道。难道这场秀是关于：艳服出席，却又心碎满地？或许是吧。系列里有1件层叠的晚礼服，胸前绣了1颗被宝石利刃穿过的红心，上面饰了数字“XXV（25）”。25是Michele的荣幸数字，也是他Instagram用户名（@lallo25）的1部份。Michele的作品历来不会只有1个主题€€€€新系列既是对

闺房风格的粉色丝绒长软椅、镜子、延绵不断的长地毯……我们仿佛置身于1间710年代的夜店，或是1个高级的寻欢场所。白雾像香烟1样围绕在秀场里，让人恍如觉得这是电影布景。不过，好像有甚么地方不太对劲。几分钟后，他那些古怪严肃的Gucci模特们就踩着超高的防水台，踏上了粉红的秀道。难道这场秀是关于：艳服出席，却又心碎满地？

或许是吧。系列工作服换成便服的函
里有1件层叠的晚礼服，胸前绣了1颗被宝石利刃穿过的红心，上面饰了数字“XXV（25）”。25是Michele的荣幸数字，也是他Instagram用户名（@lallo25）的1部份。Michele的作品历来不会只有1个主题€€€€新系列既是对210世纪大众文化的幻觉般显现，也是对文艺复兴遗风的重现。我们可以这样去理解系列里最超现实的1面：今年在GQ年度人物颁奖盛典上，Michele作为迷弟遇见了歌手Elton John；所以，本次的开场套装搭配了粗花呢外套和喇叭裤，带着强烈的710年代那种闪亮边饰的余韵。与此同时，作为Gucci形象大使的音乐家Florence Welch在配乐里朗读着William Blake的诗作。

如果仔细欣赏那些有着超高防水台的鞋子，你会心识到系列中也有文艺复兴时期的威尼斯风格。在秀前，Michele弯腰拾起1只有着10几厘米黑色漆皮鞋底的鞋，黑色丝绒鞋面上还绣着1条金蛇，他说：“之前威尼斯的妓女就是穿这类鞋子的。”穿着加高的木底靴或厚底鞋，能让人在街上行走时散发魅力、引发注意，因此这类鞋子被改进得更加精致时兴，风行105世纪。

回到现实中来。Michele将那只鞋子拆开，以展现这类鞋款的两用性。“你们看，这里面有1层平底拖鞋，可以拿出来单独穿。”这只鞋子鞋垫上的玫瑰花蕾印花让人欣喜，也流露了Michele的谨慎思：其实鞋子其实不需要内衬，但这类细节会让作品从1堆简单平庸不走心的商品里脱颖而出，绝对能成为1个热销卖点。Gucci的每件作品里都有类似的灵感启发。

回归全部系列本身。几件童话般的雪纺裙缀上了锯齿形的闪光装潢；塔夫绸晚礼服带着810年代Emanuel Ungaro服装与新浪潮的混合风格，设计了花卉纹饰和褶皱，恍如来自Trump前妻Ivana的时期；精致的裙装刻意做旧，让人感觉像是从310年代大萧条时期留到现在的遗物。其中1条精美红裙的腰带上写着：“好莱坞的永久墓地（Hollywood Forever Cemetery）”。
在时装周里设计这类标语很有趣。Michele解释说，这个标语的灵感源于自己的经历€€€€他曾受邀到洛杉矶参加Linda Ramone为已故丈夫Johnny Ramone举行的记念派对。没错，这很手机卖场冬季工作服
超现实。在这类背景下，人们会忍不住去料想，这些脸色苍白、面无表情的模特是不是来自另外一个世界？不管答案是甚么，从模特头顶带着的刺绣帽子，到他们脚上踩着的镀金玫瑰鞋垫，本季作品都到达了接近高级时装的水准。

We are in a simulacrum of a ’70s nightclub or€€given the boudoir-pink velvet banquettes, mirrors, and miles of matching carpet€€maybe it’s a high-class pick-up joint. A white mist imitates cigarette smoke. It feels like being in a movie set. But something is not right. “You know, when you are in love, in a nightclub, but you are not in the right place, the person is not there?” saidAlessandro Michele, in a backstage preview, minutes before his strangely solemnGuccicreatures set their gigantically platformed feet on the plush pink runway. Oh: So we’re speaking of being all dressed up, yet brokenhearted at the same time?

Maybe. There was one tiered evening dress that had a giant red embroidered heart, pierced with a jeweled dagger on the front, and the numerals “XXV” above it, which is Michele’s lucky number and part of the name of his Instagram account (@lallo25). Yet Michele’s whole point is never to dwell on a single point€€it’s a phantasmagoria of vintage 20th-century pop-culture references, bound up with relics of the Renaissance that he created here. One pathway to understanding this most surreal of his collections might be the fact that he met Elton John at theGQMen of the Year awards, and he’s a fan. Hence the opening look, with its tweedy jacket and flares, and the extra-big ’70s glitter-framed shades.Florence Welchwas reading the poems of William Blake on the soundtrack.

Then again, you would be rewarded by looking at the gigantically platformed footwear, and learning that Renaissance Venic工作服女裤子薄款
e also comes into it. Before the show, Michele knelt and picked up one example with a black patent 5-inch wedge and a black velvet upper, which was embroidered with a gold snake. “Prostitutes in Venice used to wear these,” he exclaimed. The n集采中心工作服
ecessities of glam streetwalking in a city of floods meant that elevated pattens, or chopines, soon became elaborately stylish and beautifully fashioned in the 15th century.

Cut to the present, and Michele is dismantling the shoe, to demonstrate that it is actually a two-for-one purchase. “You see, there is a flat slipper inside, one you can wear separately.” The tender surprise of the rose bud€€printed insole of this shoe tells as much about Michele as anything else. The lining didn’t strictly need to be there, but to discover it in a world of generically bland corners-cut product is a wonder, and a wonderful selling point. The inspiration is seen through into every product.

Back to the whole, though. There were fairy-tale chiffon dresses tipped in zigzag sparkle. EightiesUngaro€€meets€€New Wave cocktailwear in taffeta that was frilled, floral ruched, and straight out of the Ivana Trump era. Fragile dresses, deliberately aged, which looked as if they were relics of the Depression. And on one extraordinary long red dress, a sash spelling out the words “Hollywood Forever Cemetery.”

That’s a funny thing to put in a fashion show. Michele explained that he had been to Los Angeles a张家港工作服定制公司
nd was invited to Linda Ramone’s commemorative celebration party for her late husband, Johnny, at the cemetery. Surreal, yes. In the context of that, it was tempting to wonder whether the whey-faced, expressionless models were actually of this world, or the next. Either way, what they were wearing was of n工作服穿着规范
ear haute couture level, from the hats through the embroideries, down to the gilded, rose-strewn insoles.

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